Bruges, Ghent and Brussels
4 HOURS IN BRUGES
Bruges is one of the most pretty and picturesque of the Flanders towns. It is easy to walk around it and you can easily see it in a day. Following are some of my tips about Bruges.
NIKI’S TIPS:
· Take a boat tour on the river to see the city from the canal. There are a few tours around.
· Keep in mind they mostly speak Flemish or Dutch and the signs are in Flemish. Don’t worry you can find people speaking English or French.
· Bruges is famous for its chocolate and chocolate shops and there are shops everywhere. Best ones are The Chocolate Line, Chocolate Dumon, The Old Chocolate House, where upstairs you can drink different varieties of hot chocolate with a side of local waffles (try the in house with butterscotch and whipping cream).
· Bruges is also famous for its waffles. Lizzie’s waffles are famous, especially as they are very large and fluffy.
· Belgium is famous for its fries. There are fries shops everywhere. I tried St Vincent, which supposedly it’s the number one. The fries where good if you like this type but I prefer French fries. :-p
· I discovered a very cute local Christmas shop that ships worldwide as well, in the street Breidelstraat, near the Belfort in Markt square.
· It is full of small local shops, cafes and restaurants, but expect a bit higher prices there.
· If you arrive in the train station there are buses running to the center, close to all the sights and those take around 10-15min.
· Avoid to eat or sit in the Markt square as places are more touristic and expensive. You can find better options outside of the square in the narrow streets.
What you must see (sights):
1. Markt, market place square, is surrounded by shops, restaurants, cafes and some interesting medieval buildings, around it are narrow streets filled with shops, cafes etc as well.
2. Belfry or Belfort of Bruges, a medieval bell tower where you can climb the 300 something stairs to the top to see the panorama views of the city (guide said 20min to walk all the way up), or an option is to go up until the middle, if you don’t want to climb all the steps, to see the bell and one floor down to see a glimpse of the square and the Belfry structure from the top.
3. Basilica of the Holy Blood, medieval (one of the prettiest I have seen) cathedral, which supposedly holds the relic of the Holy Blood or Blood of Christ on a cloth, in a room that you can visit specific hours or dates (check before going to avoid disappointment); there is on the upper floor the newest part of the church and in the ground floor the oldest, stone, part of the church, both worth seeing.
4. Church of our Lady, contains a sculpture of Michelangelo, The Virgin Mary and Jesus Christ as a baby, as said the only sculpture of the artist outside of Italy (it is worth to pass just to see the sculpture but not so much for the church if you don’t have enough time).
5. If you have spare time also worth visiting:
a. Jan Van Eyck square, the old medieval port, and the surrounding streets of old merchant mansions/houses-Spanjaardstraat and Oosterlingenplein for example
b. The Chocolate-Story Museum, dedicated on the history of cocoa and chocolate, with demonstrations
c. Sint-Janshospitaal, old medieval hospital with old ointments and medicines and medicinal artefacts
d. De Halve Brewery, to see how beer is made; it’s the only continuously working brewery in Bruges and it works from the 16th century; Flanders is famous for its beers
e. The Groeningmuseum, a museum displaying art from few local artists like Jan Van Eyck and Marcel Broodthaers.
Random discoveries to eat:
1. Quatre Mains, Philipstockstraat 8, tapas style local dishes
2. De Verbeelding, Burg 26 Oude, local brasserie
3. Chez Vincent, Sint-Salvatorskerhof 5, fast food place with attention to burgers and fried options (croquettes, chicken nuggets etc) and famous for its fries (coming in 3 sizes)
4. Reliva, Goezeputstraat 6, local restaurant, with terrace
5. Belgian Pigeon House, Sint-Jansplein 12, local cosy restaurant
6. Lizzie’s Waffles, Sint-Jakobsstraat, for large, fluffy waffles
7. Café Vlissinghe, Blekersstraat 2, mostly for beer varieties, but has some food options as well
8. The Old Chocolate House, Mariastraat 1, Chocolate shop with chocolate café (some savoury dishes but they’re not the must) on the upper floor
9. Bierbrasserie Cambrinus, Philipstockstraat 19, for the choice of 400 beers.
GHENT
Ghent is a larger city than Bruges, so more populated due also to its University and industries and proximity to Brussels, with a large amount of medieval sights to see. It was anyways in the medieval past one of the most influential and large cities of Europe above the Alps, so it has a very rich history. Suggestions of what to see are following; keep in mind it can be seen in a full day or take your time and enjoy what the city has to offer in a couple of days.
What you must see (main sights):
1. Castle of the counts, a castle with a rich history from the 12th century overlooking the city and keeping its citizens at bay; home of the Count of Flanders.
2. St. Bavo’s Cathedral, gothic cathedral where Charles V was baptised, housing impressive art like Rubens and the Ghent Altarpiece painted by Van Eyck and Hubert, the famous “The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb” (saved after stolen from the Nazis and inspiration for the movie The Monument Men), which can be seen until a specific time of the day (winter until 3.45pm, summer until an hour later) and with paid admittance (3 euros). Also the outside panels can be seen in full glory when they are closed everyday between 12-1pm.
3. Belfry or Belfort of Ghent, symbol of the city’s independence, famous for its façade and Cloth Hall, it’s in the middle of a three tower row with St. Bavo’s cathedral and Saint Nicholas church.
4. St. Michael’s Bridge, to view breath-taking views of the city to all directions.
5. Patershol, a cosy and picturesque neighbourhood around the castle of the counts, the streets are the same as they were in medieval times.
6. Beguinages, old churches/monasteries, go for The Small Beguinage, O.L.V. ter Hoyen, an UNESCO site.
7. STAM-Ghent City Museum, to find out all the city’s history inside an old abbey and monastery and a modern development, very interesting.
8. Graslei and Korenlei, walk around the area to view the medieval port, old buildings and streets, the canal and the cafes in the heart of the inner city.
9. St. Peter’s abbey, if you have the extra time, it’s a little outside the centre, but it has a very long history and beautiful medieval architecture.
Random discoveries to eat:
1. Restaurant du Progres, Korenmarkt 10, local brasserie on the Koreanmarkt main square, with delicious food and outside seating.
2. Brasserie Bridge, Sint-Baafsplein 21, local brasserie on another central square near the St. Bavo’s cathedral.
3. ‘T Oud Clooster, Zwarte Zustersstraat 5, Belgian restaurant, casual, close to Patershol.
4. ‘T Klaverblad, Corduwaniersstraat 61, Belgian-French cuisine, best for dinner, romantic.
5. Brasserie Friends, Vrijdagmarkt 6, for coffee or light lunch overlooking Vrijdagmarkt square.
6. Mokabon, Donkersteeg 35, local coffee shop with seating area, mostly locals, amazing coffee as they are roasting their own beans; go there just for the coffee if you’re a fan, not for the seating vibe. Niki’s tip: the local cappuccino is usually espresso with (whipped) cream, not milk, but very tasty.
7. Aroma restaurant, Donkersteeg 9, local Belgian restaurant, with home vibe, great meat dishes.
8. Take five espresso, Voldersstraat 10, coffee bar, cosy.
9. Gwenola, Voldersstraat 66, pancake restaurant.
10. Wasbar, Korenmarkt 37, modern restaurant/bar/coffee place on the main square.
What else?
· Chocolate shops are all around Ghent.
· Bakery Himschoot, Groentenmarkt 1, bakery from the 16th century with great bread and sweats.
· Waffles are also a local delicacy and are everywhere; I tried the food cart on the Koreanmarkt square, near the C&A store.
· Pubs for a good Belgian beer are all around. A local favourite is Irish pub Celtic Towers, near St. Michael’s bridge, in Koreanmarkt square.
· Local main dishes include croquettes, pork or chicken stew, Belgian fries and steak.
TIPS ON BRUSSELS
Brussels is the center of Europe and a massive historic center. It is small, so it is easy to see in a couple days. Here you will find incredible restaurants, cafes and brasseries and of course chocolate shops (Pierre Marcolini, Neuhaus for example). It is also famous for having a large amount of Michelin restaurants. You will rejoice in the architecture and beautiful parks all around the city. I am giving you here the scoop.
What you must see (main sights):
1. Grand Place, the medieval historic, main square surrounded by grand-scale buildings, including the town hall that historically was to be the palace of Brussels, and rumour has it that the architect killed himself due to the fact that the tower had a structure fault (it was not completely straight).
2. Saint-Catherine, a delightful neighbourhood to walk around and have a glass of wine.
3. The sculptures of Atomium (a must pass by, it’s a huge representation of the atom) and Manneken Pis (a small statue of a little boy urinating into a fountain basin is the symbol for the city, however it is very small and you may not notice it right away if you pass by).
4. The Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium, contains a large collection of Belgian artists mostly and is separated in sections-Old Masters, Magritte museum, End of century, Modern Art. At the moment until February 2018 it also hosts a temporary exhibition of Magritte and his influence in modern art; worth visiting.
5. The Cathedral of Notre Dame of Sablon.
6. Must pass by the Royal Palace of Brussels, the official resident of the monarchy and the European Union’s Commission buildings .
7. For your spare time walk the area of Sablon, for little shops, cute cafes and brasseries. Drop by the chocolaterie Patrick Roger (if you can afford it def buy) to view the high quality of chocolates and the sculptures they usually have.
8. For the high end shopping is Chatelain area. There you will find high-end restaurants and cafes as well.
Another area for shopping and walking around is Louise.
Keep in mind that the more touristic areas are around Grand Place and the museum of Fine Arts. The areas of Louise, Sablon, Chatelain have more charm and can be less crowded some times.
I just want to make a note here. I don’t usually write about places I visited that I found are not worth mentioning or weren’t good, but this one I have to note down. Maybe other people make the same mistake as it famous. On the list of restaurants to visit, Michelin especially, is one called La Truffe Noir. As the theme is about truffle I really wanted to visit it; I am a keen fun! Before going I did hear a few bad reviews about it. I can say though now, after visiting this restaurant, that it doesn’t deserve a Michelin star (sorry), the service had nothing to do with a Michelin star restaurant one, the food was good but average, the décor of the plates wasn’t unique and the truffle, even though you tasted it, the quantity was small and if you wanted extra you had to pay at least 20 euros. We took the tasting menu and ordered a bottle of wine. I must just note, even though I am the opposite of stingy, the food and wine was overpriced for its quality and service. Why it does not deserve the Michelin? Well, there where mini flies flying around, there was a waitress serving with trainers, they took forever to serve water and wine when the glasses where empty, the waiter didn’t warn before serving the plate that the dish was hot, the wine arrived after the first dish was served (late), and few more deficiencies I won’t continue mentioning.
Sorry guys, but my goal is to share my experiences with you and wherever I can help you get the best of a situation.
Where to eat:
· Nuevo Rosso, Louise: one of the best kept secrets being one of the best Italians I have tasted outside of Italy; hearty dishes served in the pan, go for the prette and antipasto or mozzarella/aubergine starter, book in advance Rue Bosquet 62, Saint-Gilles
· Colonel, Louise: not such a secret, however is one of the best for steak, book in advance Rue Jean Stas 64, Saint-Gilles
· Brussels is famous for its oysters and mussels: the most famous traditional one is Chez Leon (after a walk in Grand Place it’s a great choice), for a more posh choice go to Belga Queen-great, contemporary décor with high quality dishes, or for classic french/Belgian brasserie that also serves good quality oyster go for Les Brasseries Georges
Chez Leon, Rue de Bouchers 18, Brussels
Bella Queen, Rue du Fosse aux Loups 32, Brussels
Les Brasseries Georges, Avenue Winston Churchill 259, Brussels
· Bon Bon: 2 Michelin star restaurant, featuring a 5 and a 7 course menu, it is one of the classics Avenue de Tervueren 453, Woluwe-Saint-Pierre
· Etiquette: Italian wine shop and restaurant with small plates, average service Avenue Emile de Mot 19, Brussels
· Le Chalet de la Foret: 2 star Michelin restaurant situated in the forest, outside of Brussels, in a peaceful environment, with high quality organic and local ingredients coming from its own garden or small producers Dreve de Lorraine 43, Brussels
· Toucan sur mer: high quality fish and shellfish in a casual place Avenue Louis Lepoutre 17, Ixelles
· La Canne en ville: cosy and romantic and a bit traditional inside, has Belgian fare, with a nice outdoor seating Rue de la Reforme 22, Ixelles
· Vismet: for fish in the center of town, casual and unpretentious Place Sainte-Catherine 23, Brussels
· La Quincaillerie, Chatelain: local cuisine quite famous also for its oysters and after that seafood, beautiful atmosphere and space, located inside an ex ironmonger’s shop and designed by a student of Horta, is one of the classics Rue du Page 45, Ixelles
· Dam Sum, Chatelain: for amazing dim sum and few Chinese dishes, near the Holy Trinity church of Brussels, it is the best of its kind in Brussels, with a modern and simple décor, it tends to get crowded so go early or get ready to queue Parvis de la Trinite 11, Ixelles
· Cocina Chatelain, Chatelain: Italian, casual, good quality and tasty dishes Rue Washington 149, Ixelles
· La Piola, Chatelain: simple, traditional Italian Rue du Page 2, Ixelles
· Restaurant CO2, Chatelain: gastronomic mix of French/Spanish cuisine with some American inspirations, with a bar area that offers cocktails and an American inspired quirky décor Rue du Page 46, Ixelles closed for restorations until end of 2017
· Kamo, Chatelain: for high end sushi Chaussée de Waterloo 550a, Brussels
· For brunch on the weekend: Chez Franz, serves Belgian/French simple breakfast in a tray in package prices, Peck 20, in Louise, and Peck 47, in the centre, for a more American/English and healthy brunch, Chyl, heathy, minimal and bio restaurant, it’s popular so you must book
Chez Franz, Avenue du Haut-Pont 30, Ixelles
Peck 20, Rue Jourdan 20, Saint-Gilles
Peck 47, Rue du Marche aux Poulets 47, Brussels
Chyl, Rue de Belle-Vue 62, Brussels
For nightlife:
There are few bars in Brussels and as a more family oriented city has fewer choices, but there still are. The three best are Alice bar, for cocktails, Jeux d’ hiver, it is a club/restaurant and thus more high end and Jalousy, which keep in mind has a hard door, as Jeux d’ hiver.
Alice bar, Avenue Louise 190, Brussels
Jeux d’ Hiver, Chemin du Croquet 1, Brussels
Jalousy, Rue Haute 4, Brussels