Sifnos, Greece
Sifnos is a small island belonging to the Cycladic group of the Greek islands, just few hours away from Athens, by boat. It has beautiful, blue waters, organized, family beaches, amazing food (it is a foodie place after all), hiking trails, a pretty, picturesque Chora and an up and coming art scene. It’s famous for its ceramics as well. A lot of people, Greek and international alike, have bought summer houses, creating a growing local scene. Due to its proximity to Antiparos, Serifos, Poliaigos, Milos, it is a great connection hub to visit other islands or do boat tours, even for a day for swimming. You will find more and more luxury boutique hotels opening up and a growing number of good summer rentals.
Niki’s Must Visits:
Visit the town of Apollonia (Chora) for its beautiful architecture and art, local shops, bars and restaurants. Most of the restaurants and bars are concentrated on the street called “Steno”. You will also find here some rooftops (Argo, Botzi, Cosi) worthwhile for their views, especially when the sun sets. Apollonia is connected with also picturesque Artemonas, where you will also find shops, restaurants and bars; it is quieter than Apollonia. You can walk from one to the other or park to each individual’s public parking or stop in each place’s bus stop and walk around each one independently.
Visit the ancient capital of Sifnos, Kastro, a cluster of roads full of history, views over the Aegean sea and Cycladic architecture. There are a few shops here, but you should stop for sunset drinks (or late-night drinks) in either Kavo bar for cocktails and Cuban/alternative vibe or Loggia wine bar for a selection of good wines (must book for the sunset time in high season).
Do eat dinner in the new “talk of the town” restaurant of Sifnos, Cantina, in the beach of Kastro (Seralia beach). It used to be a small cantina, but the owners expanded it to a restaurant with an eclectic, unique yet simple Greek menu. They use a lot of local and fresh ingredients. The atmosphere is really romantic, and their list of wines is very interesting. My favorite restaurant in Sifnos. You must book, as it is small. Keep in mind you can’t park just in front of the restaurant you have to park further behind and walk a tiny bit or park in the public parking of Kastro and walk the stairs down; be mindful it’s quite a walk up afterwards.
Another favorite restaurant is Bostani, in Verina Astra hotel, near the Chora. Also Greek eclectic cuisine with simple and unique flavors from famous chef Nick Thomas, in a rustic, Mediterranean setting with incredible views. Try to call in order to book a time before the sun sets to absorb the views. It also has an incredible wine list, even by the glass, and cocktail list. Do try the tomato/strawberry salad, red mullet and rooster.
Go for homemade sweets in Kitrino Podilato (Yellow Bike) in Artemonas. Everything they have is very good. I tried the chocolate dessert, the Bueno and the ekmek kataifi. You can also have coffee here as the vibe is really cool. Another place for homemade sweets is To Konaki in Kastro, open all day, or Krypti, which opens in the evening, more famous for its loukoumades.
For local traditional sweets (kourabiedes, amygdalota, pasteli) visit the family owned, old style, Theodorou bakery in Artemonas. They were one of the best I ever had.
When you buy local products, you will find local made jewelry, art, ceramics etc. but also buy from a local bakery the ladokouloura (oil biscuits sweet and sour) especially the ones with star anise.
Visit the Church of Chrisopigi for its beauty and location. Here you will find great options to swim, either on the right hand side of the church (Saoures beach) or the left hand side (Apokofto beach). Both unorganized but Apokofto has more shade. Do buy amazing coffee in Way Cup Roaster (behind the parking in Apokofto beach); they also do their own blend. Eat lunch in Chrisopigi tavern, where except seafood you will also find local dishes cooked in the oven in clay pots. There is a small, picturesque path connecting Chrisopigi with Vlicho and Faros, the nearby beaches and seaside town. If you have time to walk, at least a distance of it, its magical.
If you have the time visit the north of the island and do try to go in one of the beaches you reach by hiking/walking. Vroulidia beach is surprisingly, organized and has a beach bar. You can park where the road becomes unpaved and walk all the way down around 15 min, or if you have a car in very good condition and you are a good driver, park a bit closer to the beach. You can’t go all the way down. Do a pit stop for lunch and/or swim in Cheronissos. The Cheronissos taverna offers fresh fish. There are other two beaches called Gialoudia in the area, which you reach by hiking.
Beaches:
Vathi: large, family beach. Has sunbeds in front of Nostos café (the best one) or Bola. The best place to have lunch is Tsikali taverna.
Platis Yalos: large, busy, family beach. Offers a few options for sunbeds, restaurants, cafes. Best ones are Yalos Seaside Obsession, Maiolica and Nus.
Chrisopigi beaches: one side is unorganized, incredibly pretty Saoures (right hand side of church), the other side also unorganized, offering a bit of shade with the trees, Apokofto beach. Best place for lunch Chrisopigi taverna. People also jump from the rocks around the church.
Vlicho beach: following the beach of Faros you arrive at this also very pretty, unorganized beach. The trees offer some shade. You can walk to Chrisopigi taverna for lunch or eat/drink in one of the places of Faros.
Cheronissos Beach: on the north side of the island, a calm, especially when windy, seaside town’s beach. Eat in Cheronissos taverna.
Vroulidia beach: blue waters, sunbeds, beach bar, but hard access to the beach. You have to park as close to the beach as you can and then walk for access. Avoid in windy days.
Those are my favorites but there is also, Fassolou beach, Faros beach, Kamares beach (sunbeds) and smaller unorganized beaches requiring hiking or boat to approach.
Restaurants:
Cantina, Kastro: on the beach of Kastro, Seralia, this very famous foodie destination offers Greek, modern, unique dishes, made with local and fresh ingredients and offers an interesting wine list. As the space is small do book and go for dinner.
Bostani, Poulati: in Verina Astra hotel, near Chora, this place is run by famous chef Nick Thomas, offering eclectic, local, gourmet dishes yet simple. The atmosphere is rustic in a Mediterranean setting with views over the Aegean Sea. Try to go a bit before the sun sets for the views and do book.
To Kelari, Kato Petali: near Chora, this old oil press now restaurant offers some of the best Sifnonian local dishes, mostly made in their wooden oven. Do try the local Mastelo (oven dish with lamb in the traditional Sifnonian clay pots), caper salad and revithokeftedes (chickpea balls). If on the menu try the local Revithada (chickpea soup). Better to book for dinner.
Omega3, Platis Yalos: another of the famous Sifnos restaurants, it offers Greek/Latin dishes great for sharing, in a modern, cool environment. It has few tables also on the beach. As the sun hits it, it’s better in the evening and as its busy you need to book.
Perivoli, Artemonas: offers modern, Mediterranean cuisine in a cozy courtyard with its own garden. It is hiding in the village of Artemonas and has become a common secret between the seasonal locals. Better to book and best for dinner.
Kafeneio Drakakis, Apollonia: a great spot to share local mezedes in Chora and be close to the buzz. You can’t book a table, but as it becomes busy have some patience for a table.
Cheronissos taverna, Cheronissos: in this seaside town, you will find this local taverna for fresh fish.
Chrisopigi taverna, Apokofto beach: near the church of Chrisopigi you will find this local taverna for seafood or local meat dishes cooked in clay pots.
Tsikali, Vathi: stop here for lunch when in Vathi, for fresh fish or very good local dishes, with tables on the beach.
Yalos Seaside Obsession, Platis Yalos: good for lunch or dinner it is a fun spot, with tasty dishes in a modern, fun environment. Great for all day.
Other options in Platis Yalos is Maiolica (modern Greek) or To Steki (traditional local) for lunch or dinner.
Captain George, Seralia beach: a family run traditional, fish tavern close to Kastro.
Limanaki tavern, Faros: in between Faros and Vlicho beach come for its lobster spaghetti.
When in the port of Kamares eat in Meropi (traditional taverna) or have a coffee and snack in Isalos.
Bars/Cafes:
Botzi bar, Apollonia: a cool, artsy place great for all day, but late at night is when the fun starts. Features also a rooftop. Attracts the summer local crowd and suave, cool 30-40 year old’s.
Cosi bar, Apollonia: trendy, modern bar, with blends of Greek and international music. Attracts younger crowd and features also a rooftop.
Doloma bar, Apollonia: great for early in the night in the heart of the buzz of the Chora.
Diachronico, Artemonas: a local, cool, cocktail bar in Artemonas.
Loggia Wine Bar, Kastro: selection of interesting wines with views over the beach of Kastro. Great for sunset (must book in high season) or late night.
Kavo bar, Kastro: cocktail, alternative bar with views over the beach of Kastro for sunset or late night drinks.
Palmira, Platis Yalos: a cool bar on the beach of Platis Yalos, with tables on the beach as well, close to Omega3.
Rabagas, Apollonia: bar/restaurant/concept space, has options for modern vibe drinks or dining.
Way Cup Roaster, Apokofto: near the Chrisopigi church for amazing coffee. The owners have dedicated their time learning everything about coffee. Behind the parking of Apokofto beach.
Homemade sweets
in Kitrino Podilato (Yellow Bike) in Artemonas, is a must in an artsy, cool location. Sweets on display or order the Ekmek Kataifi with ice cream. Also To Konaki in Kastro (you can ask them for the millefeuille) and Krypti in Kastro, especially for the loukoumades. Opens in the evening.
Sunset drinks
in 7 Seas in Kamares (port) if you are in the area.
Niki’s Tips:
¨ As parking is tight the island offers public parking spaces all around the island. Parking on the street is not allowed and can also disturb traffic.
¨ There is only one newsstand shop in the island and that is in Apollonia, on the main road.
¨ Around Apollonia and Artemonas main road, you will find a variety of essential, and not only, shops, bakeries, cafes etc., easily accessible by car.
¨ If you want to stay close to the buzz or where the nightlife is, try to stay close to the center of Apollonia. All around Apollonia you have some other smaller neighborhoods, like Exambela or Ano Petali. If you have children or want to be close to the beach, try to stay in Platis Yalos ideally or Vathi. If you want something more unique stay in Kastro.
¨ As Sifnos is famous for its ceramics you will find ceramic workshops and shops all around the island.
