Spetses & Portoheli, Greece
Spetses is a tiny island in the Saronic sea, two and a half hours from Athens, with no cars, beautiful old aristocratic houses, a rich shipping history and great little spots to unwind. It is named the French Riviera of Greece, with a Greek and international affluent crowd visiting the island every summer. It also futures different festivals during the year like the Regatta or the Spetsathlon.
Niki’s Tips:
The busiest month to visit is August, when people flop to their summer houses, so if you want a quieter time visit another month in the summer.
Cars are not allowed, but you will find a handful of car taxis, water taxis, horse drown carriages, motorcycles and bikes to rent.
The main port is called Dapia. On the left side of the island is the Old Port (Palio Limani) where the nightlife is located.
On the other side (right side) of Dapia there are some restaurants, beaches and accommodation, and is quieter. You can walk easy anywhere. It is 15-20min walk from Dapia to the Old Port and the same from Dapia to the Kaiki beach side (right side). There is horse drawn carriages leaving for the Old Port from the left side of Dapia (there is a station) and for the right side the station is located close to the Poseidonio Hotel. You can rent motos or bikes or use the bus or even the car or water taxis for any location.
There are a few festivals in the island with the most famous the Armata happening somewhere in the 7thof September (whichever date falls on a Saturday). It is the celebration of the burning of the Turkish Armada during the War of Independence in the 19th century.
Do learn about the shipping history of the island and its important role during the Greek Independence War in the 19th century. You can visit the house of Mpoumpoulina, which is now a museum; it has scheduled tours. She was a hero of the revolution. There is also the Spetses museum and you can visit from the exterior the house of Anargiros, a rich patron of the island, and the school he built, the Anargirios School (Korgialenios).
There is a ferry in Dapia visiting some of the beaches of the island. Check the schedule in the port. You can also rent a boat for the day to visit harder to reach beaches in Spetses or in the mainland across, of Portoheli.
If you want to visit the area of Portoheli or come to Spetses with a car, there is a station in Kosta, in Portoheli area, on the mainland, for water taxis and a scheduled ferry. There are two parking lots to park your car if you are driving down. The trip takes maximum 10min and is quite easy. The water taxis are more expensive and is one per group of friends or go for the cheaper option, the scheduled ferry; times are displayed every summer on the port.
Beaches:
Kaiki beach: organized beach on the right side of Dapia. It has a beach bar and restaurant and watersports. During the busy months of summer you can pre book.
Agia Marina beach (Paradise beach): on the left side from Dapia, after the Old Port, it is a small, organized beach with sunbeds, as well, beach bar and restaurant. If you want a cheaper and more casual meal you can eat lunch in the taverna across, called Tzortzis. It is advisable to book sunbeds during the busy months.
Kouzounos beach: a small, beautiful beach, a small distance from Agia Marina beach. It is unorganized but you may find shadow under the trees. If you want to explore more there is another hidden unorganized beach before Kouzounos.
Garyfalos beach: a tiny, unorganized beach, one cove before Agia Marina beach.
Vrellos Beach: an organized beach, with beach bar, a little bit after Kaiki beach.
Zogeria beach: on the far corner of the island, it is famous visiting spot for yachts, but you can also visit by bus/moto/bike/water taxi. It has a few sunbeds and a very simple taverna, which serves whatever they have freshly cooked on the day.
Agia Paraskevi beach: on the back side of the island, it is organized and has a beach bar. You can visit also with a local boat/ferry that leaves from Dapia specific times of the day.
Agioi Anargiroi beach: on the back side of the island, it is organized and has a beach bar/casual restaurant. You can visit with the local boat/ferry that leaves from Dapia, specific times of the day.
Xilokeriza beach: on the back side of the island as well. Organized with a beach bar/canteen. You can use a water taxi/moto/bike to visit. Check if there is a local ferry from Dapia also stopping in this beach.
For most beaches across the island you can either walk too or rent a boat for the day and go around the island.
Restaurants:
Tarsanas: one of the best tavernas of the island, situated in the Old Port, near the water. It is best for dinner but can be visited also for lunch. Great for fresh fish or seafood. Try the day’s ceviche, their potato salad and their eggplant dip. Advisable to book.
To Nero tis Agapis (The water of love): it is situated in the right side of Dapia, before Kaiki beach. It has the same owners as Tarsanas and is both great for dinner or lunch. Great for fresh fish and seafood as well. Always better to book for dinner.
Patralis: another great taverna, on the right side of Dapia, before Kaiki beach, for fresh fish. Here, if you are lucky to find fresh lobster, you will eat great grilled lobster or lobster spaghetti. Better to book, especially for dinner.
Orloff: a Mediterranean restaurant in the Old Port. Great for sharing plates as well. It is for dinner and it is advisable to book.
Liotrivi: in the Old Port, on a water deck, it is a more formal restaurant with Mediterranean cuisine. For dinner and better to book.
Bikini upstairs: in the Old Port, on top of the bikini bar, with views around the Old Port and modern Mediterranean dishes. It has amazing brunch during the day and at night transforms into a modern, romantic dinner place.
Kapelogiannis: a Greek casual, tapas style taverna, on a little deck in the Old Port. It also offers fresh fish. Better for dinner and advisable to book, as there is limited capacity.
Poseidonio Hotel restaurant: in the Poseidonio Hotel terrace you have two options for food. The casual bar/restaurant (Library Brasserie) for coffee, drinks or a meal, on one side and the formal restaurant (On the Veranda), on the other side with an exquisite menu from a famous chef. Better to book for On the Veranda.
Akrogialia: a fish tavern, near the water, on the right side of Dapia, a short walk from Poseidonio hotel. Great for lunch or dinner.
Al Vecchio Porto: in the Old Port, for pizza and pasta, also near the water. For dinner it is advisable to book.
Those are the top restaurants I recommend but other great options are Bouboulina, a tavern in Dapia, Cockatoo for souvlaki in Dapia, Balconi for wine and a bite in Dapia, Mosquito for brunch near Dapia, 1800 for drinks and a bite near Dapia, Flashy Grill House for souvlakia in the Old Port, Agios in Dapia for homemade food, Provenza in Dapia for Italian casual flavours.
Bars:
Most famous being the Bikini bar in the Old Port. The dancing happens indoors but there are tables outdoors as well for drinks, which are better to book during the busy season.
Guzel in the Old Port, it is a club.
Hono&Lulu: in the Old Port, another bar/club.
Throubi bar in the Old Port.
Palms, the bar in Poseidonio Hotel, on the terrace.
Votsalo, a small cocktail bar, hidden in the small streets of Dapia.
Roussos: for coffee, casual drinks or a snack, like their famous cheese pie, with great views on Dapia.
Dapia Porto Café, in Dapia, a modern coffee shop.
Tips for Portoheli:
Eat at Hinitsa taverna, either lunch or dinner, for fresh fish and seafood. You can also swim here, as there is a beach. If you want to combine lunch and a swim book the tables on the water side.
Papadias: a high end tavern, for fresh fish and Greek meze.
Veranda Del Vino, for wine and a small bite.
Casual tavernas like Ippokampos, Ouzeri, Limani, all located close to each other.
Taverna Costa Bianca, a fish tavern in Costa Bianca region.
Maryvone restaurant, in a small village called Iliokastro, 30-40min from Portoheli and an institution in the area. A French chef married to a Greek local, offering a mix of French and Greek dishes and amazing local grilled meat. Advisable to book.
Best coffee in Monkey Moo in Portoheli.
