Folegandros, Greece
Folegandros is a beautiful, Cycladic, kind of isolated island, with a similar landscape to Santorini. However, instead of volcanic beaches, it offers transparent blue waters and one of the most beautiful main towns (Chora) in the Cyclades group. It is small, so it easy to visit for three days, and if you are not a fan of driving it offers a bus to the man areas of the island. Expect peacefulness, relaxation and a nonchalant lifestyle, nights with rakomelo and live music and extraordinary cliff views, especially during sunset time; is a must.
How to go:
Folegandros island is not very easy to reach, but is completely worth it. There used to be a direct boat from Piraeus to Folegandros – I believe they reinstated it this year; a catamaran not taking cars only passengers is the fastest option, otherwise there is a slower ferry that takes cars.
There are ferries connections through Milos as well.
It is a small island, so you can either have a car and drive around, or you could be prepared to walk quite a bit or take the bus.
I always recommend to stay at Chora, as the most dining, shopping etc is there. But there are some nice accommodation options near the port as well, close to some beaches, and easier if you have children. However, there are not many options for a nightlife there.
Hotels:
Anemomilos Hotel: is one of the best in the island, inside the Chora, with (a small) parking space, home-feeling hospitality and cliff views to die for. Breakfast is fantastic. Great even for a drink during sunset for the views and the sunset itself.
Aria Boutique Hotel: another high end hotel in Chora, also with cliff viewings.
Anemi Hotel: near the port, on the road to Chora, this is a luxurious beautiful hotel.
Omar Suites: more central in the port, luxurious suites type hotel.
Beaches:
You can drive or take the bus to Agkali beach and either swim there, with tavernas and cafes behind you or take the small boat to go to the beaches of Galyfos, Agios Nicholaos (with the famous tavern there) or Livadaki. There are frequent boat rides; ask locally for times.
Katergo Beach: in the south of the island reachable by small boat ride, from the port this time. Better when not windy.
Easy accessible by car on the south and close to the port are the beaches of Latinaki, Vinsentzou and Livadi.
All beaches are unorganised here. My favourites are Agkali, Agios Nicholaos, Livadaki and even if I haven’t been to Katergo, it is famous for its beauty.
Food/Drinks:
Agios Nicholaos tavern: on the Agios Nicholaos beach, the owners are serving you fresh meze and fish homemade in their kitchen. Down it down with some nice fresh tsipouro. Great atmosphere and food after a day in the sun & sea.
O Psaromiligkas: on the beach of Agkali, end of the beach on the right side, on the middle of the stairs, with views, great meze and fresh fish.
Sinadisi: in Ano Mera village, a family restaurant offering local cuisine, especially their famous pasta (Matsata) with rooster or plain with cheese. Views over the Aegean.
Under the Palm Tree: a coffee shop in the village of Ano mera, for great coffee in the island or a nice modern brunch.
To zimaraki: Chora, go here for some great pizza in the island, made all by hand, based on old traditional methods of dough making.
Blue cuisine: Chora, the more gourmet experience of dining in the island, go for modern Greek cuisine .
To Barbounaki: Chora, a kind of new opening, offering some innovative fish and seafood dishes, making it one of the best in the island to try.
Pane y Vino restaurant: in Ano Mera village, a place opened by an Italian lady with her Greek husband, it is only open for dinner and has only a few tables. It has different Italian inspired dishes, with the menu changing daily, depending the ingredients and inspiration of the day.
Restaurant Piatsa: Chora, in the middle of the square this taverna creates some great local dishes. If you are lucky there will be some live music playing in the square.
Chic restaurant: Chora, another restaurant for local and Greek traditional menu. I recommend the meat based dishes here, and the vegetarian.
Ice cream “O theios: Chora, yes you guessed it, for ice cream, the best in the island.
Tuk Tuk: Chora, a little Thai place in the middle of the Aegean Sea. It is supposed to be very good.
Le Petit: Chora, a tiny window shop near the main square and towards the bars (close to Theo and Beez bar) offering small daily selection of amazing desserts. This pastry chef opened his shop last year and every night there is queue hurrying to catch his few available desserts. Grab one and eat it on the street as long as is fresh.
1790 wine cave: Chora, in the entrance of the Chora tucked in near the Haraki Hotel, there is this new modern wine bar, with a huge selection of island wines, mostly Greek, but also international. The owner has done a great selection of wines to try there, or buy for home, but not only that he has created a small, beautiful menu with Greek inventive cuisine. For example I tried the cheese board with local made chutneys from different flavours; divine. Another little gem in Folegandros.
Kanela coffee & Bakery: in the entrance of Chora, a great bakery to find breads, pies, coffee and sweets.
Punta: Chora, come here for a local breakfast with fresh ingredients and the must try home-made cake.
As for nightlife there are many bars in the Chora, from traditional ones for rakomelo (Greek wine sweetened with honey and best served hot) to modern cocktail bars. Aquarius, Theo, Beez, Lotzia etc.
